Mt. CHOLATSE PEAK (6440M)
Cholatse (also known as Jobo Lhaptshan) is a mountain in the Khumbu region of the Nepalese Himalaya. Cholatse is connected to Taboche (6,501m) by a long ridge. The Chola glacier descends off the east face. The north and east faces of Cholatse can be seen from Dughla, on the trail to Mount Everest base camp. Cholatse was first climbed via the southwest ridge on April 22, 1982 by Vern Clevenger, Galen Rowell, John Roskelley and Bill O'Connor. The north face was successfully scaled in 1984. The first solo ascent was accomplished on April 15, 2005 by Ueli Steck through the north face.
Cholatse is a stunning peak with narrow snow and ice ridges and steep faces. It is on the ridge separating the Gokyo and Khumbu valleys, just north of Taboche and just south of a 5420 meter pass used by Sherpas and trekers alike to go between the Gokyo and Khumbu valleys. Interestingly, there is a lake just below this pass to the east, and in Tibetan 'cho' is lake, 'la' is pass, and 'tse' is peak so Cholatse means literally "lake pass peak". Unlike many mountains, there is no easy way to reach or descend from its summit, so any climb of the mountain is a serious mountaineering undertaking. Through the 1950's 60's and 70's, Everest, Ama Dablam and the other named peaks of the Khumbu were climbed on by one but no permits were granted for Cholatse, so it remained unclimbed until 1982 when it was infact the last named but unclimbed peak in the Khumbu. In that year, Al Read from Mountain Travel secured a permit for the peak. In April of that year, Vern Clevenger, John Roskelley, Galen Rowell and Bill O'Connor reached the summit via the South West Ridge. The climb was described as some twenty pitches of difficult ice climbing. Later that same year, a Swiss expedition with Heidi Ludi, Niklause Alpiger and the Nepelese climber Kancha Tamang reached the summit after fixing ropes on much of the South East Ridge. The following year, the startling North East face was climbed by Todd Bibler, Catherine Freer, Penny Jackson and Sandy Stewart. At a slide show, Bibler, who had waltzed up the Eiger's North Face on an earlier European trip implied that the climb was quite scary (VI AI5 5.9 A2). It wasn't until many years later that Tomaz Humar, Aleš Koželj and Janko Oprešnik made the 2nd ascent of the NE face of Cholatse with a new variation on 23 April 2005. Several additional lines have been climbed including the prominent Western Rib of the West Face and the long corniced North West Ridge. During 2005 a number of variations of the North-East and North Face climbs were achieved including the first Winter Ascent of the North Face by the Koreans Park Jung-hun and Choi Kang-sik who were unfortunately both significantly injured by frostbite following an accident on the descent from the summit. Ueli Steck made a solo ascent of the north face including a direct finish in a 37 hour push from base camp with a single bivouac on the face. He reports the difficulty as "rock to F5, ice to 90 degrees, and M6 terrain noting the climb was similar in difficulty to the north face of the Eiger. He was named as one of Europe's three best alpinists by "Climb!" magazine as a result of this climb and that of neighboring Tawoche.
Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to Hotel. Welcome drink and short briefing about Peak Climbing, relax.
Day 2: Arrangement of Trekking Equipment and half day sightseeing tour with our Tour Guide by private car, stay overnight at Hotel.
Day 3: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla 2840m and trek to Phakding 2610m/3-4hours, stay overnight at tented Camp.
Day 4: Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazar 3440m/5-6hours, stay overnight at tented Camp.
Day 5: Acclimatization Day, hike to Everest View Hotel and back to Camp.
Day 6: Trek from Namche Bazar to Dole 4110m/5-6hours, stay overnight at tented Camp.
Day 7: Trek from Dole to Machhermo 4470m/4-5hours, stay overnight at tented Camp.
Day 8: Trek from Machhermo to Gokyo 4790m/5-6hours, stay overnight at tented Camp.
Day 9: Hike to Gokyo Ri 5360m and trek to Thangnak 4700m/2-3hours, stay overnight at tented Camp.
Day 10: Trek from Thangnak to Dzongla 4830m/7-8hours via Cho-La Pass 5368m, stay overnight at tented Camp.
Day 11: Trek from Dzongla to Lobuche 4910m/4-5hours, stay overnight at tented Camp.
Day 12: Trek from Lobuche to Gorakshep 5140m/2-3hours and afternoon side trip to EBC 5364m, stay overnight at tented Camp.
Day 13: Morning hike to Kalapathar 5550m and trek from Gorakshep to Cholatse Base Camp 4590m/5-6hours, stay overnight at tented Camp.
Day 14: Preparation Day, stay overnight at tented Camp.#
Day 15: Preparation Day, stay overnight at tented Camp.
Day 16: Preparation Day, stay overnight at tented Camp.
Day 17: Climb from Base Camp to Camp I, stay overnight at tented Camp.
Day 18: Climb from Camp I to Camp II, stay overnight at tented Camp.
Day 19: Climb from Camp II to High Camp, stay overnight at tented Camp.
Day 20: Summit to Chalatse Peak 6335m and back to Base Camp 4590m, stay overnight at tented Camp.
Day 21: Trek from Cholatse Base Camp to Pangboche 3930m/5-6hours, stay overnight at tented Camp.
Day 22: Trek from Pangboche to Namche Bazar 3440m/6-7hours, stay overnight at tented Camp.
Day 23: Trek from Namche Bazar to Lukla 2840m/6-7hours, stay overnight at tented Camp.
Day 24: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu and transfer to Hotel by private car.
Day 25: Full Day Sightseeing Tour in world heritage sites with our Tour Guide by private car, stay overnight at Hotel in Kathmandu.
Day 26: Final Departure to International Airport for further destination.
01. Arrival & Departure : Airport transfers-Airport/Hotel/Airport
02. Hotel In Kathmandu : 4 nights in Katmandu 3 star Hotel on bed & breakfast Basis-Double Room
03. Domestic flight: Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu flight with personal baggage and 01 Sherpa Guide and necessary Nepalese Local Staff with domestic Airport Tax
04. Expedition cargo : Extra Member luggage of Climbing equipment handled with care from Kathmandu to Lukla to Kathmandu by domestic airlines.
05. Transportation: Necessary Transportation in Kathmandu valley Sightseen.
06. Permit : Mt. Cholatse Peak Permit,National Park & TIMS permit.
07. Garbage Management : Stool Shipment Transfer, Garbage Deposit fees ( Deposit by Seven Summit Treks)
08. Lodging & Fooding : Food 3 meals a day in Trekking & Base camp for member & Staffs
09. Cargo Clearance : International Air cargo clearance of Member Personal Luggage & Payment of Government taxes for cargo clearance
10. COOK : 1 trekking Cook & and necessary kitchen Helper on the basis of Member
11. Porter : 01 porter for each member to carry their luggage and necessary porter for camping equipment/
12. Staff Salary and allowance : All Nepali staffs & porters daily wages/equipment/food/clothing with personal life & Medical Insurance
13. Insurance : All Staffs Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance
14. Member Luggage : 40 Kg per member for personal baggage
15. Base Tent : VE25 North face or Kailas tents for base camp for per member
16. Tents: Dinning Tent /Kitchen Tent /Toilet Tent /Hot shower "Bag" /Tables & chairs, Cooking Utensils
17. Light : Necessary light at Dinning and Kitchen tent.
18. High Altitude Tent: Necessary VE25 Kailash High Tent for Member and High Altitude Sherpa
19. High camp service : Necessary cooking gas, cooking pot for Member, high food and fixing gear.
20. Dinner: 01 Farewell Dinner in tourist standard restaurant in Kathmandu with Nepalese Staff
01. Lunch & Dinner: Lunch & Dinner in Katmandu Hotel stay and more the 5 nights in Kathmandu Hotel
02. Insurance : Travel and High Altitude Insurance /Accident/Medical/emergency evacuation
03. Personal Expenses: Telephone,Internate, Laundry, any Alcoholic beverages,Personal equipment and shopping
04. Nepaleses Visa: Nepali Visa fee US$ 40 per person for 30 days ( to be applied for 100 days US$ 100)
05. Sherpa summit Bonus & Tips : Sherpa Summit bonus US$300 ,pls calculate some tips
06. Extra porter: If Extra porter needed more then calculate US$ 120 for extra porter up to Base Camp per 30 kgs
07. High Altitude Climbing Sherpa: 1 Climbing Sherpa for each Member and Climbing Bonus
Member Personal Equipment
S/No Particular Qty
01. Down suits (dangri) 1
02. Summit shoe 1
03. Walking shoe 1
04. Crampon 1
05. Summit Glove (Mitten) 1
06. Normal gloves 2
07. Summit Snow goggles 1
08. Glacier glasses 1
09. Ice axe 1
10. Harness 1
11. jumer 1
12. Carabiners (normal) 3
13. Sleeping bag (-40C) 1
14. Down filled Mattress 1
15. Summit socks 2
16. Normal socks 3
17. Climbing bag (40 ltr) 1
18. Helmet 1
19. Down jacket 1
20. Down trouser 1
21. 8 finger / descender 1
22. Headlamp (Icon or Spot) 1
23. Gore-tex jacket 1
24. Gore-tex trouser 1
25. Fleece jacket 1
26. Fleece trouser 1
27. Fleece liner gloves 3
28. Screw Gate Carabiner 1
29.Balaclava (windstopper) 1
30.Thermos bottle 1
31. Base layer (woolen) 2 (set)
32. Water bottle normal 1
01. Ice crews
02. Fix rope
03. snow bars
04. EPI gas
05. Rock piton
06. Carabiners (normal)
07. High tent
08. Summit rope
09. Cooking pot
10. Snow shovel
11. Ice hammer / adge (set)
12. Member high food
14. Mask & regulator
15. Quick Draws