Overview

Gasherbrum is a remote group of high peaks in the Karakoram, located at the northeast end of the 36-mile Baltoro glacier. The group forms a semi-circle around its own South Gasherbrum Glacier. A French Expedition led by H. De Segogne made first attempt in 1936, but they could not climb beyond Camp V at a height of 6797 meters. However, in 1958 an American Expedition led by Nich Clinch made the first ascent of Gasherbrum I. Pete Schoening and Andy Kaufman were first to reach the summit.

 

The peak was also the venue of the world’s first 8,000 meter climb in pure Alpine Style. This means that the start of the climb is done from the bottom of the mountain and all gears are carried on the way, if any bivouacs, they will be found on the way. No route preparation is done. Supplemental oxygen is not used. Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler achieved this unprecedented feat in August, 1975. On 8 August 1975, they began their climb. They had no rope with them, no supplemental oxygen, just personal climbing gears. On August 10th they summitted the peak and thus introduced pure Alpine style climbing to the Karokaram.

 

Gasherbrum I is one to the "least popular" of the 8000 meter peaks. It still has less than 200 ascents and is in tenth spot on the ascent-list for the 8000 meter peaks. It is also one of the peaks with least deaths, but this probably has to do with the fact that only really experienced mountaineers try a peak as difficult at Gasherbrum I.

 

The most common way to climb the peak is to attack on the western side and all routes here leads to "The Japanese Couloir", which is located on top of the north-west face. The first ascent (1958) was made via Spur Peak and then via the long south east ridge to the summit.

 

Highlights

  • Duration: 57 DAYS
  • Countries: Pakistan
  • Max. Altitude: 8068 M
  • Walking Per Day: 5 - 6 Hours Per day
  • Nature: Lodge + Camping
  • Grade:
  • Best Season: Summer

Itinerary

Day

1    ARRIVAL ISLAMABAD TRANSFER TO HOTEL
2    FREE DAY 
3    FLY TO SKARDU 
4    SKARDU FREE DAY AND BRIEFING
5    DRIVE TO  ASKOLE
6    TREK TO JHOLA
7    TREK TO PAIYU
8    REST DAY IN PAIYU 
9    TREK TO URDUKASH
10  TREK TO GORO II
11   GORO II - SAKRING
12  SAKRING - GI BASE CAMP
12 - 47  CLIMBING PERIOD
48  TREK BACK TO GORO II
49  TREK BACK TO KHUBURTZE
50  TREK BACK TO MUNDUNG
51  TREK BACK TO ICE KOLI
52  DRIVE TO SKARDU
53  FAREWELL AND DEBRIEFING
54  FLY BACK TO ISLAMABAD 
55  LEISURE DAY IN ISLAMABAD
56  INTERNATIONAL FLIGHT TO HOME COUNTRY

Services

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    S.NO.          EQUIPMENT NAME   QUANTITY 
     1  DOWN SUITS ( DANGRI )   1 PIECCE 
     2   SUMMIT SHOES ( CLIMBING BOOT )    1 PAIR 
     3  TREKKING SHOES ( WALKING SHOES )    1 PAIR 
     4  SLEEPING BAGS ( - 40 )   1 PIECE 
     5  CRANPONS  1 PAIR 
     6  SUMMIT SNOW GOGGLES   1 PIECE 
     7  SUMMIT GLOVES ( MITTEN )   1 PAIR 
     8  NORMAL GLOVES   2 PAIR 
     9  GLACIER GLASSES ( SUN GLASS )   1 PIECE 
     10  ICE AXE   1 SET 
     11  HARNESS   1 SET 
     12  JUMAR ( INDEX )   1 PIECE 
     13  CARABINEERS   2 PIECE 
     14  DOWN FILLED MATTRESS ( AIR MATTRESS ) - 38                1 PIECE 
     15  SUMMIT SHOCKS ( 2  PAIRS )   2 PAIR 
     16  CLIMBING BAG ( 40 LTR )   1 PIECE 
     17  CLIMBING HELMET   1 PIECE 
     18  DOWN JACKET   1 PIECE 
     19  DOWN TROUSER   1 PIECE 
     20  FIGURE OF 8 ( DESCENDER )   1 PIECE 
     21  HEAD LAMP ( ICON )   1 PIECE 
     22  GORTEX JACKET   1 PIECE 
     23  GORTEX TROUSER   1 PIECE 
     24  WIND PROOF JACKET   1 PIECE 
     25  FLECE JACKET ( 2 PCS )   1 PIECE 
     26  FLECE TROUSER   1 PIECE 
     27  FLECE INNER GLOVES   1 PAIR 
     28  SCREWGATE CARABINEER ( ROCK LOCK )   1 PIECE 
     29  TERMOS WATTER BOTTLE   1 PIECE 
     30  NORMAL WATER BOTTLE   1 PIECE 
     31  TAPE SLING   1 PIECE 
     32  TREKKING PANTS   2 PIECE 
     33  NECK WARMER   2 PIECE 
     34  HEAD GEAR   1 PIECE 
     35  SUNSCREEN CREAM  50  SPF   1 PIECE 
     36  LIP GUARD   2 PIECE 
     37  DESERT CAP   1 PIECE 
     38  SWISS KNIFE   1 PIECE 
     39  TREKKING POLES   1 PAIR 
     40  DUFFLE BAGS   2 PIECE 
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