First Ascent of Kyungka Ri 1- Expedition Detail

  • October 24, 2017

6 Koreans planned to climb Kyungka RI 1 peak located in Langtang Region of Rasuwa District. Kyungya RI is also know as Kyungka R1, stands with the height of 6599m / 21 650 ft. (Cordination : 28°17'48" / 85°40'03 ) and lies on the border of Nepal/Tibet. The peak is surrounded by Shalbachum Glacier on its SW side, Chusumdo Glacier (Tibet) on its North side and Kyungka Glacier on its SE side.

This Peak was unclimbed before this successful attempt, as there was an expedition on 2010 Spring of Japanese team leaded by Yoshichika Yamada but due to the bad weather and high wind team was just able to gain 5850m height above Camp 2.

Seven Summit Treks issued permits for 6 Korean members for an attempt of Kyungka RI 1 (SST Korean Kyungya RI I Exp. 2017 ) along with 4 more Sherpas mentioned below:

S.NO.

MEMEBR FULL NAME

REMARKS

Nationality

Height Gained

1

OH CHI WHAN

MEMBER

KOREA

C 1

2

HAN SANG HUM

MEMBER

KOREA

Summit

3

OH MINYOUNG

MEMBER

KOREA

Summit

4

YANG HANMO

MEMBER

KOREA

C 1

5

BYEON JUNKI

MEMEBR

KOREA

C 2

6

YOUN HEONMO

Leader

KOREA

C 1

7

SANGE FURI SHERPA

Sherpa

Nepal

C 1

8

PASANG NURBU

Sherpa

Nepal

Summit

9

LAKPA TENJING

Sherpa

Nepal

Not Even BC

10

DAWA NURBU

Sherpa

Nepal

Summit

 

6 Korean Members team, leaded by YOUN HEONMO  arrived to the Kathmandu on 2 Oct 2017 and reached to Syabrubeshi on 5 Oct, 6 Oct to Lama Hotel, 7 Oct Langtang, 8 Oct to Kyanjin Gumba and finally to Lang Shisha Kharka (4080m) on 10 Oct. In Lang Shisha Kharka team set the camp and stayed for single night. Tomorrow morning on 11 Oct started their journey to the Basecamp of Kyungka RI. At an altitude of 4700m (approx.) on Shalbachum glacier team managed to set the basecamp. On 12 Oct all the team members took rest at the basecamp as 2 Sherpas Dawa Nurbu and Pasang Nurbu hike from Basecamp via Glaicer to C 1 and descent down to the Basecamp. Dawa and Pasang set the camp (C1) at an altitude of 5300m.

13 Oct morning around at 8:00am all 9 members (excluding Lakpa Tenjing, who was not even to the basecamp) started their climbing from the basecamp to C 1. Team walked from left side of the glacier and at the end crossed the glacier to reach the C 1 around 3:00pm (where Sherpas put the tent yesterday).

Next day morning at 8:00 am team continued their climbing from C 1. Only 5 members are on the way to C 2 from C 1 as others stayed at C 1 :  OH MINYOUNG, HAN SANG HUM, BYEON JUNKI, PASANG NURBU and DAWA NURBU. All members took SW Face route (Shalbachum Glacier) and reached the point 5700m (C 2) at 2:10pm where the set the tent below the rocky wall for overnight.

15 Oct (3:00am); OH MINYOUNG, HAN SANG HUM, PASANG NURBU and DAWA NURBU started their climbing for summit push. The route was not so difficult but some part were technical. There was a big Crevasse 20m long and 10m in depth, team belayed 10m down to the crevasse and continued climbing. Team fixed 400m rope approx during their climbing. After crossing the Crevasse team reached the ridge on North Side. From this North West Ridge team continued their climbing and between 10 am to 10:30 am all four members reached the highest point 6599m (summit) of the Kyungka RI 1 peak. The view as amazing and south face of Shisha Panga was so clear.

(L)HAN SANG HUM (R) OH MINYOUNG ON THE SUMMIT OF KYUNGKA RI 1

As this is the first summit of Kyungka RI 1 peak on the 50th Anniversary of Dae Jeon Alpine Federation; members claimed this new route as Dae jeon alpine federation (DAF 50) Route. Team Spent 30 minutes on the top and descent to C 1 and C 2. Sherpa Pasang Nurbu and Han Sang Hum descent to C 1, other members Oh Minyoung and Dawa Nurbu decided to stay overnight at C 2. Next day on 16 Oct (9:00am) all members came down to the basecamp (1:00pm) and took rest at basecamp for additional one day.

All team member were back to Kyanjin Gumba on 18 Oct, took rest for a single day and Fly back to the Kathmandu on 20 Oct.

 

SST !